This was contributed by Peter Chan. He has asked me to credit Dinan for the original copyright. The DME needs to be pulled if you are "chipping" the car or if you suspect a bad connection is causing the engine to cut out. It is a reasonably involved process.

Tools Required

• Standard (blade) screwdriver, pocket sized
• Philips screwdriver, medium
• Blunt nosed pliers, medium
• Standard blade screwdriver, small

1. Open hood; note the black soundproofing material located on the passenger side of the firewall behind the battery's + terminal. This soundproofing is fastened to the firewall with reusable plastic rivets. Using the pocket sized screwdriver remove these rivets by prying the rivet's center section out from its outer section. (Once the rivet's center section protrudes halfway from the rivet body, the whole rivet will fall out of its hold) be careful not to drop or lose the rivets.

2. Fold down the soundproofing material to gain access to the black plastic cover behind it. Remove the four Phillips screws and tilt the cover forward - this unhooks it from the channel at the bottom of the cover. Disengage the wiring harness from this cover, set the cover aside. The ECU compartment is now exposed.

3. The Motronic control unit is located on the bottom of the ECU compartment. Remove the wiring harness by lifting the metal clasp on the connector. Remove the two Phillips screws and the clamps that retain the ECU (Note: there are both right and left side clamps; note their positions for later reassembly). Slide the ECU straight out of the compartment and take it to your workbench. The ECU numbers can be taken off the ECU.

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